Which single appliance or habit in your home costs the most rupees per month, measured from your own meter rather than guessed?
A household that cannot say where its units go cannot argue with its bill, and neither can a school, a hospital or a factory. Energy auditing is a trade built on exactly this method — baseline, isolate, convert to money, change one thing, measure again — and it is paid for because the savings pay for it. Grid operators, solar installers and building managers all hire people who can defend a before-and-after number in front of somebody who does not want to believe it.
Two acts. Find, then fix.
Every EAD project runs the same shape. The first act produces a number nobody in the room could previously state. The second act changes exactly one thing and proves whether that number moved.
A one-page costed problem statement carrying five lines: whose bill, units per month for the one appliance, rupees per month at your household's own rate, rupees per year, and that appliance's share of the whole house. Behind every line sits a dated meter photograph or a circled line on the bill.
Two charts of the baseline fortnight against weeks one, two and three — one in units, one in rupees, never both on one axis — plus the mean after-figure, the week-to-week spread inside the baseline itself, the next printed bill set beside your own arithmetic, a named confounder list, and the bill-payer's recorded answer on whether the change stays.
What actually gets measured
If your household cannot run this
Run it on the school's own meter. A member of staff reads it with you at two fixed times for fourteen days, and the site electrician or caretaker — the person who already switches the school's boards — does every switching operation for the isolation run while you stand back, read and record. One pump, one geyser, one corridor of lights, one server cupboard. The school's own bill supplies the tariff, and the bursar signs the before-and-after in place of a bill-payer. This is marked exactly as the home version is marked, out of the same twenty. It is not a reduced project, and the school meter is in some ways the better instrument, because the bill behind it is bigger and somebody in the building is already arguing about it.
Every step, written out
Twenty steps in total — ten to find the number, ten to fix it. Pick the route that matches what your school actually has.
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Find the meter
40 minutesLocate your meter, work out what its display means, and take the first dated reading without touching anything.- Stand in front of the meter in daylight and copy every figure on the face into the notebook exactly as it appears, hands at your sides.
- Copy the meter number printed on the front and check it against the meter number printed on the bill.
- Identify which figure is the units total in kWh; on a digital meter press nothing and wait for the display to cycle to that screen by itself.
- Sketch the meter face and label what each figure means, marking the decimal digit if there is one.
- Rule the log columns: date, time, reading, difference, load-shedding hours, notes.
Write down: The meter number, the meter type, the labelled sketch, and the first reading with date and time to the minute.Finished when: The labelled sketch and the first reading are in the notebook, and the meter number matches the bill.Commonest mistake: Pressing buttons on a digital meter to reach the screen you want. Press nothing and wait. If units never appear, copy every screen down and ask the expert which one it is. -
Fourteen days of readings
10 minutes twice a day for fourteen daysBuild the baseline by reading the meter at the same two clock times every day for a fortnight, so you know how much a week wobbles on its own.- Choose two fixed times, for example 07:00 and 22:00, and agree with the household that somebody reminds you at each. Any reading taken after dark is taken with a named adult beside you.
- At each time copy the reading into the log with the actual clock time, in ink, without correcting earlier entries.
- Write load-shedding start and end times every day, and any hours run on a generator, a UPS or solar.
- Subtract longhand in the difference column to get day-block units and night-block units.
- Add one word for the weather and a note on whether the house was fuller or emptier than usual.
- At the end, total each of the two baseline weeks separately and write the gap between them. That gap is your noise floor: nothing smaller than it counts as a change later.
Write down: Twenty-eight readings, fourteen day-block totals, fourteen night-block totals, both weekly totals with the gap between them, and a load-shedding line for every day including the zeros.Finished when: Fourteen complete days with no missing reading, every day carries a load-shedding note even when it is zero, and the difference between baseline week one and baseline week two is written down as a number.Commonest mistake: Reading at 'about ten'. A reading an hour late wrecks the block comparison — write the real clock time and subtract from that. -
Read the bill properly
45 minutesTurn your household's own printed bill into a rupee-per-unit rate you can defend.- Lay this month's and last month's bills side by side and circle in pen: units billed, the slab breakdown, fixed charges, every tax line, and the total payable.
- Copy twelve months of billed units from the consumption history box printed on the bill itself into your notebook.
- Divide total payable by units billed, longhand, to get the average rate, and copy the slab rate your next unit falls into from the tariff table printed on the bill.
- Write one sentence naming which rate you will use for the appliance costing and why.
Write down: Twelve months of billed units, both rupee-per-unit rates with the working shown, and the reason for the rate you chose.Finished when: You can say what one extra unit costs your household tonight and put your finger on the printed line that proves it.Commonest mistake: Using the headline slab rate and ignoring taxes and fixed charges. Show both rates: the marginal rate is what a saved unit is worth, the average rate is what the bill feels like. -
Isolate one appliance
30 minutes of setting up, plus two runs long enough to move the meter ten steps — an hour each for a heavy load, several hours for a light oneMeasure what one appliance draws while a named adult runs it alone against the meter. You read and record. You switch nothing.- Agree one appliance with the household — an air conditioner, a fridge, a water pump, a geyser, an iron, a heater, or the lights on one floor — and write in the log the name of the adult who will do every switching operation.
- Copy the wattage and voltage printed on the appliance's own label, without moving it, opening it or removing any cover.
- Find the meter's least count first: the smallest step its last digit can move, commonly 0.1 units on a domestic meter. Write it down before you time anything.
- The named adult agrees a quiet window and switches off every other load at the wall switches the household already uses, leaving only the one appliance running, and switches that appliance on and off. Your hands stay at your sides throughout.
- Copy the meter reading and the clock time, let the run go on until the reading has moved by at least ten least counts — with a 0.1-unit meter that means one whole unit, which a small load will not reach in half an hour — then copy the reading and the time again.
- Divide units used by hours run longhand to get units per hour, then repeat the whole test on a second day, with the same named adult present from the first switch-off to the last reading.
Write down: The meter's least count, the name of the adult who switched, start reading, end reading, minutes run, how many least counts the reading moved, units per hour with the working shown, the label wattage, and the gap between the two test days.Finished when: Each run moved the meter by at least ten least counts, and the two independent tests agree within the tolerance you calculated from that least count and wrote down before you compared them — or you have written down exactly why they do not. A tolerance set without knowing the least count is a guess: on a 0.1-unit meter a short run on a small load can be wrong by more than a tenth of a unit from rounding alone.Commonest mistake: Forgetting the fridge, the router and the standby lights. Anything left on lands inside your appliance's figure — list what could not be switched off and subtract its measured share. -
Count the hours
40 minutes of arithmetic, plus 5 minutes a day marking the tally card for seven days, plus two seated hours watching the appliance cycleTally how many hours the appliance actually runs and turn that into rupees per month.- Keep a tally card beside the appliance and mark every start and stop time for seven days.
- For a fridge or a pump that cycles on its own, sit with it for a full hour with the watch and count the minutes it actually runs, twice at different times of day. That is two hours of sitting still, and it is the only way to get the duty cycle honestly.
- Multiply units per hour by hours per week, then by the weeks in a month — 4.33, not four — then by your chosen rate, showing every multiplication on the page.
- Set the figure against the whole-house units from step two and write what percentage of the house this one appliance is. Round that percentage to the nearest whole point and no finer, because it is built on a meter that moves in steps.
Write down: Hours per week, units per month, rupees per month for this one appliance, and its share of the whole house.Finished when: The appliance figure exists in rupees per month and it is smaller than the whole-house bill.Commonest mistake: An appliance that appears to cost more than the entire bill. The isolation test or the hours are wrong — redo the test before writing another line. -
Name the leak
50 minutesFinish the costed problem statement on one page and choose the single change you will make.- Write five lines: whose problem this is, units per month, rupees per month, rupees per year at today's tariff, and share of the whole house. Beside the yearly figure write the caveat in the same line: it assumes twelve months like this one, and a geyser in winter or a cooler in summer runs nothing like the month you measured.
- Draw the fourteen day-blocks and fourteen night-blocks as paired bars on squared paper, scale stated, titled with the finding.
- List three candidate changes that cost nothing: a thermostat or fan setting, a timing shift, a door seal pressed back, a bulb already owned, or one habit.
- Choose one and write: 'I will change X for three weeks and expect this appliance to fall from A units per week to B.'
- Read the page aloud to whoever pays the bill and have them sign and date it if they agree to the change.
Write down: The one-page costed problem statement, the three candidate changes, and the chosen change as one testable sentence.Finished when: Somebody who was not there reads the page once and repeats your rupee figure back correctly.Commonest mistake: Choosing a change that needs something bought. Use what is already in the house, or the result measures money spent rather than a habit changed. -
Set the after rules
40 minutesWrite the protocol that makes the after-measurement comparable with the before.- Write what stays fixed: the same two clock times, the same meter, the same rupee rate, the same appliance, the same tally card.
- Write what is allowed to move: only the one thing you named in step six.
- Rule twenty-one blank dated rows in the notebook before any data exists.
- Write the confounders you already expect: weather, guests, load-shedding hours, a different person using the appliance.
- Write your prediction of the after figure, date it, and have one person witness it with a signature.
Write down: The numbered protocol, the twenty-one blank dated rows, the confounder list, and the witnessed, dated prediction.Finished when: The notebook holds empty dated rows for three weeks and a signed prediction that predates the data.Commonest mistake: Changing two things at once because both looked easy. Two changes give one number you cannot attribute to either — change one and keep the second for the stretch. -
Measure week one
10 minutes twice a day for seven daysRun the change for seven days and read the meter exactly as you read it before.- Take both daily readings at the same two clock times and write them in ink with the real time.
- Keep the tally card running exactly as it ran in Act 1.
- Repeat the isolation test once under the new setting and record units per hour again.
- Write load-shedding and generator hours daily, and mark the week as disturbed if those hours moved sharply against the baseline fortnight.
- Write down every slip: a missed reading, a night the change was forgotten, a guest who reversed it.
Write down: Seven days of readings, one repeated isolation test, the hours tally, and a dated failure entry.Finished when: Week one is complete with no blank rows and the failure log holds at least one honest entry.Commonest mistake: Being unusually careful with electricity all week because you are watching yourself. Name that effect in the log — it is the reason you measure for three weeks and not one. -
Weeks two and three
60 minutes of arithmetic and drawing, plus 10 minutes twice a day for fourteen daysRepeat two more weeks, then check your finding against the next printed bill.- Take the same two readings daily for a further fourteen days without altering anything else.
- Add the three after-weeks and divide by three, longhand, then set the mean against the mean of the two baseline weeks — and against the gap between those two weeks, which tells you how big a fall has to be before it means anything.
- When the next bill arrives, compare its billed units with your own arithmetic and write out any gap and the reason for it.
- Draw two charts on squared paper, each to one stated scale and each with one unit only: five bars in units — baseline week one, baseline week two, then weeks one, two and three — and the same five bars again in rupees. Never both units on one axis.
- Write the confounder paragraph: temperature, load-shedding hours, people in the house, and anything else that moved.
Write down: The two five-bar charts — one in units, one in rupees — the mean after-figure, the gap between the two baseline weeks, the bill comparison with its explanation, and the confounder paragraph.Finished when: You can state the before figure, the after figure, and at least two reasons the difference might not be your doing.Commonest mistake: Blaming the bill when it disagrees with your notebook. Check the billing dates first — a bill rarely covers the same days you measured. -
Share and reflect
60 minutesPublish the finding, defend it to real people, and record what the household will keep.- Deliver the defence live, ten to twelve minutes of unseen questions, in front of two witnesses who sign and date the page. On this route there is no recording.
- Read the one-page explainer to three neighbouring households on the same tariff and write down what each of them said.
- Hand or post the chart to the expert your teacher wrote to, with one question: what would you have measured that I did not.
- Ask whoever pays the bill, in front of a witness, whether the change stays and why, and write the answer word for word.
- Complete the relations ledger with ten codes, roles, dates and replies.
Write down: The defence, signed and dated by its two witnesses, the one-page explainer, and the relations ledger holding ten coded relationships.Finished when: Ten coded relationships are logged with dates and replies, and the bill-payer has said on record whether the change stays.Commonest mistake: Presenting the rupee saving without the load-shedding note. Everyone on your street will ask about it — answer it before they do.
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Find the meter
40 minutesLocate your meter, work out what its display means, and take the first dated reading without touching anything.- Stand in front of the meter in daylight and photograph the whole face, then the number panel close up, keeping both hands at your sides.
- Write down the meter number printed on the front and check it matches the meter number printed on your bill.
- Identify which figure is the units total in kWh; on a digital meter press nothing and wait for the display to cycle to that screen by itself.
- Note whether the final digit is a decimal, and whether the meter shows separate peak and off-peak totals.
- Open a Google Sheets file named 'Meter log' with columns: date, time, reading, load-shedding hours since last reading, generator or UPS used, notes.
Write down: The meter number, the meter type, what each figure on the display means, and the first reading with the date and the time to the minute.Finished when: A photograph of the display exists, the first reading is in the sheet, and the meter number matches the number on the bill.Commonest mistake: Pressing buttons on a digital meter to reach the screen you want. Press nothing and wait for the cycle. If units never appear, photograph every screen and ask the expert which one it is. -
Fourteen days of readings
10 minutes twice a day for fourteen daysBuild the baseline by reading the meter at the same two clock times every day for a fortnight, so you know how much a week wobbles on its own.- Choose two fixed times, for example 07:00 and 22:00, and set two daily alarms for them. Any reading taken after dark is taken with a named adult beside you.
- At each alarm photograph the display and type the reading into the sheet within one minute, with the actual time to the minute.
- Record load-shedding start and end times every day, and any hours the house ran on a generator, a UPS or solar.
- Subtract in formula cells to get units used in the day block and units used in the night block.
- Add one word for the day's weather and a note on whether the house was fuller or emptier than usual.
- Total each baseline week in its own formula cell and subtract one from the other. That gap is your noise floor: nothing smaller than it counts as a change later.
Write down: Twenty-eight readings, fourteen day-block totals, fourteen night-block totals, both weekly totals with the gap between them, and a load-shedding line for every day including the zeros.Finished when: Fourteen complete days with no missing reading, every day carries a load-shedding note even when it is zero, and the difference between baseline week one and baseline week two sits in the sheet as a number.Commonest mistake: Reading at 'about ten'. A reading an hour late wrecks the block comparison — write the real clock time and let the formula work from it. -
Read the bill properly
45 minutesTurn your household's own bill into a rupee-per-unit rate you can defend.- Photograph this month's bill and last month's, then open your distribution company's online bill page and pull twelve months of billed units.
- Circle on the photograph: units billed, the slab breakdown, fixed charges, every tax line, and the total payable.
- Calculate two rates — total payable divided by units billed, and the marginal slab rate your next unit falls into, taken from the NEPRA tariff schedule.
- Enter both rates in the sheet and write one sentence naming which rate you will use for the appliance costing and why.
Write down: Twelve months of billed units, both rupee-per-unit rates, and the stated reason for the rate you chose.Finished when: You can say what one extra unit costs your household tonight and point to the line on the bill or the tariff schedule that proves it.Commonest mistake: Using the headline slab rate and ignoring taxes and fixed charges. Show both rates: the marginal rate is what a saved unit is worth, the average rate is what the bill feels like. -
Isolate one appliance
30 minutes of setting up, plus two runs long enough to move the meter ten steps — an hour each for a heavy load, several hours for a light oneMeasure what one appliance draws while a named adult runs it alone against the meter. You read, photograph and record. You switch nothing.- Agree one appliance with the household — an air conditioner, a fridge, a water pump, a geyser, an iron, a heater, or the lights on one floor — and enter in the sheet the name of the adult who will do every switching operation.
- Copy the wattage and voltage printed on the appliance's own label, without moving it, opening it or removing any cover.
- Find the meter's least count first: the smallest step its last digit can move, commonly 0.1 units on a domestic meter. Put it in the sheet as a named cell before you time anything.
- The named adult agrees a quiet window and switches off every other load at the wall switches the household already uses, leaving only the one appliance running, and switches that appliance on and off. Your hands stay at your sides throughout.
- Read and photograph the meter, start the stopwatch, and let the run go on until the reading has moved by at least ten least counts — with a 0.1-unit meter that means one whole unit, which a small load will not reach in half an hour — then read and photograph the meter again.
- Divide units used by hours run in a visible formula cell to get units per hour, then repeat the whole test on a second day, with the same named adult present from the first switch-off to the last reading.
Write down: The meter's least count, the name of the adult who switched, start reading, end reading, minutes run, how many least counts the reading moved, units per hour, the label wattage, and the gap between the two test days.Finished when: Each run moved the meter by at least ten least counts, and the two independent tests agree within the tolerance you calculated from that least count and entered in the sheet before you compared them — or you have written down exactly why they do not. A tolerance set without knowing the least count is a guess: on a 0.1-unit meter a short run on a small load can be wrong by more than a tenth of a unit from rounding alone.Commonest mistake: Forgetting the fridge, the router and the standby lights. Anything left on lands inside your appliance's figure — list what could not be switched off and subtract its measured share. -
Count the hours
40 minutes of arithmetic, plus 5 minutes a day marking the tally sheet for seven days, plus two seated hours watching the appliance cycleLog how many hours the appliance actually runs and turn that into rupees per month.- Keep a tally sheet beside the appliance and mark every start and stop time for seven days.
- For a fridge or a pump that cycles on its own, sit with it for a full hour and time how many minutes in that hour it actually runs, twice at different times of day. That is two hours of sitting still, and it is the only way to get the duty cycle honestly.
- Multiply units per hour by hours per week, then by the weeks in a month — 4.33, not four — then by the rupee rate you chose.
- Set that figure against the whole-house units from step two and state what percentage of the house this one appliance is. Round that percentage to the nearest whole point and no finer, because it is built on a meter that moves in steps.
Write down: Hours per week, units per month, rupees per month for this one appliance, and its share of the whole house.Finished when: The appliance figure exists in rupees per month and it is smaller than the whole-house bill.Commonest mistake: An appliance that appears to cost more than the entire bill. That means the isolation test or the hours are wrong — redo the test before writing another line. -
Name the leak
50 minutesFinish the costed problem statement on one page and choose the single change you will make.- Write five lines: whose problem this is, units per month, rupees per month, rupees per year at today's tariff, and share of the whole house. Beside the yearly figure write the caveat in the same line: it assumes twelve months like this one, and a geyser in winter or a cooler in summer runs nothing like the month you measured.
- Chart the fourteen day-blocks against the fourteen night-blocks in Datawrapper, titled with the finding rather than with the word 'chart'.
- List three candidate changes that cost nothing: a thermostat or fan setting, a timing shift, a door seal pressed back, a bulb already owned, or one habit.
- Choose one and write: 'I will change X for three weeks and expect this appliance to fall from A units per week to B.'
- Show the page to whoever pays the bill and record their agreement, dated, before anything changes.
Write down: The one-page costed problem statement, the three candidate changes, and the chosen change as one testable sentence.Finished when: Somebody who was not there reads the page once and repeats your rupee figure back correctly.Commonest mistake: Choosing a change that needs something bought. Use what is already in the house, or the result measures money spent rather than a habit changed. -
Set the after rules
40 minutesWrite the protocol that makes the after-measurement comparable with the before.- Write what stays fixed: the same two clock times, the same meter, the same rupee rate, the same appliance, the same tally method.
- Write what is allowed to move: only the one thing you named in step six.
- Prepare twenty-one blank dated rows in the sheet before any data exists.
- Write the confounders you already expect: weather, guests, load-shedding hours, a different person using the appliance.
- Record a dated prediction of the after figure, in units and in rupees, before anything is changed.
Write down: The numbered protocol, the twenty-one blank dated rows, the confounder list, and the timestamped prediction.Finished when: The sheet sits ready and empty for three weeks and the prediction exists with a date that precedes the data.Commonest mistake: Changing two things at once because both looked easy. Two changes give one number you cannot attribute to either — change one and keep the second for the stretch. -
Measure week one
10 minutes twice a day for seven daysRun the change for seven days and read the meter exactly as you read it before.- Take both daily readings at the same two clock times and photograph each display.
- Keep the appliance tally sheet running exactly as it ran in Act 1.
- Repeat the isolation test once under the new setting and record units per hour again.
- Log load-shedding and generator hours daily, and mark the week as disturbed if those hours moved sharply against the baseline fortnight.
- Write down every slip: a missed reading, a night the change was forgotten, a guest who reversed it.
Write down: Seven days of readings, one repeated isolation test, the hours tally, and a dated failure entry.Finished when: Week one is complete with no empty cells and the failure log holds at least one honest entry.Commonest mistake: Being unusually careful with electricity all week because you are watching yourself. Name that effect in the log — it is the reason you measure for three weeks and not one. -
Weeks two and three
60 minutes of building the charts, plus 10 minutes twice a day for fourteen daysRepeat two more weeks, then check your finding against the next printed bill.- Take the same two readings daily for a further fourteen days without altering anything else.
- Calculate mean units per week across the three after-weeks and set it against the mean of the two baseline weeks — and against the gap between those two weeks, which tells you how big a fall has to be before it means anything.
- When the next bill arrives, compare its billed units with your own meter arithmetic and explain any gap in writing.
- Build two Datawrapper charts, each carrying one unit only: five bars in units — baseline week one, baseline week two, then weeks one, two and three — and the same five bars again in rupees. Never both units on one axis.
- Write the confounder paragraph: temperature, load-shedding hours, people in the house, and anything else that moved.
Write down: The two five-bar charts — one in units, one in rupees — the mean after-figure, the gap between the two baseline weeks, the bill comparison with its explanation, and the confounder paragraph.Finished when: You can state the before figure, the after figure, and at least two reasons the difference might not be your doing.Commonest mistake: Blaming the bill when it disagrees with your meter. Check the billing dates first — a bill rarely covers the same days you measured. -
Share and reflect
60 minutesPublish the finding, defend it to real people, and record what the household will keep.- Deliver the defence live, ten to twelve minutes of unseen questions, in front of two witnesses who sign and date the page: the meter, the number, the method, the change, the result and the limits. A recording may be kept as evidence, but the signed page is the requirement.
- Show the one-page explainer to three neighbouring households on the same tariff and write down what each of them said.
- Send the chart to the expert your teacher wrote to, with one question: what would you have measured that I did not.
- Ask whoever pays the bill, in front of a witness, whether the change stays and why, and let them answer without prompting.
- Complete the relations ledger with ten codes, roles, dates and replies.
Write down: The defence page signed and dated by its two witnesses, the one-page explainer, and the relations ledger holding ten coded relationships.Finished when: Ten coded relationships are logged with dates and replies, and the bill-payer has said on record whether the change stays.Commonest mistake: Presenting the rupee saving without the load-shedding note. Everyone on your street will ask about it — answer it before they do.
What the student hands in
Nine pieces. Together they are the folder a parent can sit down and read.
The expert they have to find
Ten logged relationships are required before this project can be marked. One of them is an expert, and this is who.
An energy auditor, or the maintenance engineer or technician who manages the electricity bill for a school, hospital, hotel, mill or small factory. A solar installer who sizes loads for a living works just as well.
How to find one
Go by institution and role, not by person. Every school, hospital, hotel, mill and small factory has somebody who signs off the electricity bill — a maintenance engineer, an estate or facilities manager, or the site electrician. Your distribution company runs an energy-conservation desk at its customer services office. Solar installation companies employ engineers who size loads all day. Municipal and university estates departments employ the same role. You name the institution and the role; your teacher makes the approach from a school address, and the reply comes back to the school. You do not ring, message or search for a named individual yourself.
What to say
Dear [name or role], I teach at [school]. One of my learners has read a household meter twice a day for fourteen days and timed one appliance running alone against that meter to cost it in rupees. Could you spare fifteen minutes — on a call with me present, or by written reply, whichever suits you? Their five questions are below.
What to ask
- When you audit a building, what do you measure first, and why that before anything else?
- My isolation test ran for [number] minutes with everything else switched off. What is still drawing current in a house at that moment?
- Would you cost a saved unit at the marginal slab rate or at the average rate, and why?
- How do you separate a real saving from a change in the weather or in load-shedding hours?
- What is the commonest appliance you find people are wrong about, and how wrong are they?
If no reply comes, nobody is chased. You submit the questions exactly as your teacher sent them, the dated record of the attempts, and one named published source — the NEPRA tariff schedule or a published audit guide — in place of the answers. That route scores. The gate is passed by asking properly, never by getting somebody to reply.
The defence
Eight of the twenty marks. A student who cannot answer these has not finished, however good the artefact is.
- Would the bill have fallen anyway without your change, and how do you know?
- Your isolation test ran once on one day. What else was drawing current at that moment, how many units did it add, and how far could your meter's least count alone have moved your answer?
- The tariff has slabs. If your household crossed a slab boundary during the three weeks, what happens to your rupees-per-month figure?
- Somebody says your saving is just cooler weather and lighter load-shedding. Answer them using only your own data.
How far a student can take it
If you want to go further
Isolate a second appliance and rank every measured load in the house by rupees per month, so the household can see which one to attack next.
When it goes wrong
- If nobody replies to the messages your teacher sent - then take the next institution off your teacher's brokered contact list, ask for a written reply instead of a call, and if that also goes quiet submit the questions as sent with the dated attempts and one named published source. You do not walk into an office to ask in person.
- If the household or the site says no - then run it on the school's own meter with a member of staff and the site electrician, exactly as set out above, and be marked out of the same twenty. Nothing about the mark changes.
- If your before and after look the same - then compare load-shedding hours across both periods first, check the fall against the gap between your two baseline weeks, then report the null result with the numbers, because an honest zero is a finding.
- If you cannot isolate the appliance because nothing else can be switched off - then have the named adult agree a window when only that appliance runs, measure the whole house across it, and write down the residual load you could not remove.
- If the meter barely moves in the time you have - then lengthen the run rather than reporting the difference, because a reading that shifts by one or two least counts is mostly rounding.
- If you run out of time - then shorten the after-period to two weeks, keep the twice-daily readings and the full fourteen-day baseline intact, and state the shortened period on the chart rather than filling the gaps in.
Before you start
- Never open, unscrew or remove the cover of anything: an appliance, a socket, a switch plate, a distribution board, a fuse box or the meter itself. If a test needs a cover to come off, the test is out of scope — choose a different appliance.
- Never touch wiring, terminals, exposed metal or the face of the meter. Every reading is taken by looking only, from normal standing distance, with dry hands and dry feet, and never in the rain or with wet floors underfoot.
- You do not switch anything. Every switching operation in this project — every wall switch, every plug, the appliance under test and every load turned off around it — is done by a named adult who has agreed to it in advance, and that adult stays present for the whole isolation run, from the first switch-off to the last reading. Your job is to read the meter, watch the clock and write. Switching is only ever done at the plug or the wall switch the household already uses every day, never at the main board.
- Never climb or stand on anything to reach a meter mounted high — the named adult reads it out to you instead. Any reading after dark, or any walk to a meter outside the house, happens with that adult beside you and within sight the whole time.
- Record load-shedding, generator, solar and UPS hours every day of both periods. Power that did not come through the meter breaks the comparison, and a before-and-after made without that note is worth nothing.
Run this with a class
Both booklets are free and complete — all twelve projects, 240 written steps, either route. The first year costs a school nothing, including training one teacher.
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